ross dobson food

In their natural state, shimeji mushrooms grow in clumps on trees. But no matter how they are packaged, they still look like something from a science lab. In fact, many of the Asian varieties of mushrooms we eat in Sydney do come from a lab of sorts; Arrold’s Spawn Laboratory, housed in an abandoned railway tunnel in the southern highlands of New South Wales. Here, Dr Noel Arrold, microbiologist, has created the perfect environment, with the required constant balance of low temperature and high humidity. In the cold, wet caverns, Arrold uses a unique blend of Australian sawdust to mimic the mushrooms’ natural state.

Aptly then, shimeji translates to ‘mushrooms that grow in the damp’. They are sold in clusters comprised of dozens of small individual mushrooms, about four centimetres long, joined at a spongy base, which at some time would have supported them to a tree. They are pretty and delicate, in an alien sort of way, with their white stems and oyster coloured caps. They have a fresh, organic aroma, similar to your standard field mushroom, and can be used raw in salads or quickly cooked in soups and stir- fries.

To prepare shimeji gently separate the stems at their base. Typical of most mushrooms, shimeji are highly absorbent so avoid rinsing them in water. If they need cleaning prior to cooking, wipe with dry kitchen towel. Store all mushrooms in a paper bag or in a clean glass bowl covered loosely with a clean cloth.

Shiitake are the most popular variety and more common than ever. They are the velvety fawn coloured mushrooms found fresh amongst your field, button and swiss brown. Shiitake are quite similar in shape and size to the swiss brown but you can use your nose to discern. Shiitake have a strong, earthy aroma. The smellier the better. Their stems need removing and can be saved as a tasty addition to a stock. Their full flavoured flesh can be so meaty you may need to cut a cross in the top of larger ones so they cook evenly. These qualities render them perfect in a butter based steak sauce, thinly sliced and with a splash of soy sauce making them feel right at home. By the way, shiitake, when dried, are sold as Chinese dried black mushrooms that require re hydrating in hot water prior to cooking. Their essence is more concentrated than the fresh type.

Enoki mushrooms, native to Japan, are also sold under the Chinese names of velvet foot, snow puff and golden needle. Enoki come as clumps consisting of dozens of thin, ivory strands, with tiny caps, no longer than fifteen centimetres. They need a good trim prior to eating. Raw, their aroma is both acrid and sweet. Their flavour is delicate, fruity and light making them almost too good to cook. An exotic addition to a salad or throw into a stir fry at the last minute and they become silky threads. Perfect with noodles or  added to a hot-sour soup spiced with pepper.

Oyster mushrooms are also known as abalone mushrooms. Like the other varieties these too grow naturally in cold areas on deciduous wood. Their caps are oyster shell shaped and in the wild resemble a bed of oysters. They have a short stem and flare out to form a cap. They are smooth and creamy white with delicate ribbing underneath, like gills. Raw, their odour is almost unpleasant, with a slight fishy whiff. Cooked, the rankness goes and they melt in your mouth. Their slippery and silky texture makes them good in stir-fries with prawns and crispy snow peas or in a creamy risotto.

Black fungus are appropriately named wood ear, tree ear or black cloud ear mushrooms. They have frilly, fleshy tissue resembling the delicate curls of an ear. The stem is a small nodule and the ‘cap’ is dark brown.  One side is shiny like kelp, the other like soft skin. Closely related is white fungus, resembling a sea sponge. Both are prized in Chinese cooking for their unique crunchy texture and can be eaten raw in salads. To cook, remove the woody nodule and finely slice the mildly nutty flavoured caps. Perfect with steamed white fish or stir-fried quickly with asparagus and chinese greens.